Thursday, October 25, 2012

Feliz Sew-along - Underdress (Part 2)

(Part 1 here.)

OK! Now for the underdress. LOTS of photos ahead. :)

1. Straps (I combined the front and back strap pattern pieces and cut them as one. If you are doing both pieces, the first step is to sew that shoulder seam on each strap.)

  • Step 1 Fuse interfacing to two of the shoulder straps

  • Step 2 Sew the straps and clip the inner curves

  • STep 3 Turn, press and topstitch straps.


2. Back panel and elastic casings

  • Step 1 Finish the bottom edge of the back facing and attach any size tags.

  • Step 2 Sew back facing to back underdress, right sides together, along top only.

  • Step 3 Turn, press and topstitch top seam. Mark and sew elastic casings along back. (I marked mine 3/4" wide)

  • Step 4 Insert elastic and securely sew on one end (I used 1/2" wide elastic).

  • Step 5 Cinch elastic to about 2/3 width, then sew ends securely and trim.


3. Back ruffles

  • Step 1 Hem the back ruffles. I did a rolled hem with my serger.

  • (Step 1b - if you are not using ribbon, fold over the top edge of the ruffle to finish, or make sure to sew it on upside down and flip & topstitch)

  • Step 2 Sew seams in bottom ruffle and hem.

  • Step 3 Measure and pin ruffles on back. I sewed the bottom ruffle first, so the hem of the bottom ruffle was at 1/4", the seam allowance for the long ruffle all the way around the bottom edge. Then I placed the other two ruffles from that first one.

  • Step 4 Baste the ruffle edges in the seam allowance.

  • Step 5 Sew ribbon over top edges of all ruffles.


4. Underdress assembly

  • Step 1 Sew front underdress to sides, finish seams, press toward front, and topstitch.

  • Step 2 Sew back underdress to sides, making sure that the side pieces extend above the edge of the underdress back by the width of the seam allowance.

  • Step 3 Finish the seams, press toward the sides and topstitch.


5. Bottom ruffle

  • Step 1 Serge bottom edge of underdress all the way around, then gather and pin the hem ruffle in place evenly. I sewed mine on just overlapping the 1/4 seam allowances, not right sides together, so that there'd be less bulk. (If not using ribbon, sew right sides together, flip down and topstitch.)

  • Step 2 Apply ribbon to top of hem ruffle.


Your underdress is done! Whew. Tomorrow I'll post the last part, assembling all the dress parts!

(Part 3 here)

1 comment:

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