Monday, December 8, 2014

Michael Miller's 7th Day of Christmas - skirt tutorial

Merry Christmas! 



I'm excited to be part of Michael Miller's 12 Days of Christmas! They kindly sent a selection of fabrics from their new line, All the Trimmings (coming soon!) for me to play with. I fell in love with the sweet owls cuddling in a tree, and so did my little Abigail.



It wasn't hard to come up with a fun combination of fabrics from the same line to use for this yoked skirt with elastic waistband, ruffle and "ribbon" and bow!



Of course, her brothers needed a little something to coordinate! Bowties, using the free SisBoom Bosco Bowtie pattern.



Wanna make your own little lady this cute ruffley skirt? Michael Miller Fabrics has lots of fun holiday themed coordinating fabrics to choose from!




What you'll need:
  • main fabric (I used All The Trimmings Christmas Lovebirds Winter)
  • fabric for the yoke and trim (Candy Cane Stripe Santa)
  • fabric for ruffle (All The Trimmings Tangly Lights Candy)
  • 3/4-1” wide non-roll elastic
  • Thread and other sewing supplies
NOTES:
  • All seam allowance 3/8" unless specified.
  • Finish seams with your preferred method, such as zigzagging or serging the seam allowance.
  • I've done the math for all the sizes based on finished skirt measurements - you will be best checking your child's waist measurement and the skirt length, and then you can make any adjustments necessary.
Size
Approximate waist
Elastic cutting measurement
Skirt length
6-12 months
16”
15.5”
9.5”
12-18 month
16.5”
16”
10.5”
2T
17”
16.5”
11.5”
3T
18”
17.5”
12.5”
4T
19”
18.5”
13.5”
5T
20”
29.5”
14.5”
6T
21”
20.5”
14.5”


Yardage

Fabric 1
Fabric 2
Fabric 3
Size 6mo-3T
1/4 yd
1/4 yd
1/4 yd
Size 4T-6T
1/2 yd
1/4 yd
1/4 yd


Prepare your fabric. It’s important to prewash and dry the fabric the same way you will be caring for the garment. Once it’s washed, press and lay it out to cut the following:


Cutting Chart

Fabric 1
Fabric 2
Fabric 3

Main skirt (cut 1)
Waistband (cut 1)
Trim (cut 1)
Bow (cut 1 each)
Ruffle (piece to make your measurement)
6-12 mo
5” x 30”
4” x 20”
2.5” x 31”
all sizes:
5” x 6”
and
2.5” x 3”
2.5” x 44”
12-18 mo
5” x 31”
5” x 20.5”
2.5” x 32”
3” x 47”
2T
7” x 32”
5” x 21”
2.5” x 33”
3” x 49”
3T
8” x 33”
5” x 22”
2.5” x 34”
3” x 51”
4T
9” x 34”
6” x 23”
2.5” x 35”
3” x 53”
5T
10” x 35”
6” x 24”
2.5” x 36”
3” x 55”
6T
11” x 36”
6” x 25”
2.5” x 37”
3” x 57”

Let's start with the main skirt. Take the main skirt piece (fabric 1) and stitch the short ends together, right sides facing. Finish the seam. Repeat this for the ruffle (fabric 3), piecing together your strips to make the required length. Press each seam to one side.


Make a narrow hem on the ruffle by pressing 1/8" toward the wrong side, then folding 1/8" more and stitching.


Run two rows of basting stitches along the top edge of the ruffle strip and pull up to gather.


Take the main skirt piece and pin the ruffle to the bottom edge, right sides together, pulling the basting threads to make them match. Pin well.


Stitch the skirt and ruffle together and finish the seam.


Press the seam up toward the skirt.


Take your bow piece (fabric 2) and fold in half so that the two 5" ends match, right sides together. Sew this seam, leaving a gap for turning about 1.5" at the centre, backstitching to reinforce each line of stitching.


Roll the tube you now have so the seam is centred, then press the seam open (this seam doesn't need finishing as it will be enclosed).


Now stitch each end closed, then trim each corner at an angle, taking care not to cut through the stitching.


Take the bow loop piece and fold it so the 3" ends are matching, right sides together and stitch.


Turn both bow pieces right side out and press each, centering the seam on the smaller piece.


Accordion fold the bow piece to make a pleasing bow and use a pin to keep it together for now.


Take the loop piece and wrap it around the bow and trim if necessary, then stitch the ends together and finish.


Turn the seam inside and press.


Accordion fold one end of the bow to feed it through the loop. Arrange the loop so that the seam is toward the back.


Now take your trim piece (fabric 2) and sew it into a long tube, right sides together. Turn it right side out, using a tube turner or a safety pin. Press with the seam centred.


Lay it out around the hem of the skirt to see how long it needs to be, mark and trim if necessary. Stitch the ends together.


Press the seam open. Topstitch one edge of the trim loop.


Now lay your finished loop of trim around the skirt. I chose to centre the seam where I wanted my bow, right next to a pair of cuddling owls, off-centred on the front of the skirt. Pin it carefully in place over the ruffle and topstitch in place.


Place your bow over the seam and handstitch in place.


Nearly done! Take your waistband (wider strip of fabric 2) and bring the short ends together, right sides facing. Stitch together, leaving a 1" opening near the end (to thread your elastic through), and then stitch the last approximately 3/8" again, reinforcing at each stop and start.


Finish each side of the seam separately and then press the seam open.


Finish the edge nearest the gap. Now fold that edge down enough to make a casing for your elastic. Topstitch the edge and stitch down the casing.


Gather the top edge of the skirt to match the waistband piece as described above. Stitch and finish the seam, then press it up toward the waistband.


Insert your elastic in the gap in the casing, using a large safety pin or bodkin to pull it through. Then overlap the ends by about 1/2", stitch together, and pull the elastic into the casing.


Handstitch the opening in the casing closed - and you're finished!



Enjoy your pretty skirt! And maybe try a matching bowtie from the scraps. :)




And just to show how much fun (hah) it was to try get photos of three wiggly kids, here are a few outtakes:


(thank goodness for leggings!)




Friday, December 5, 2014

Sew Fab Bundle - Extraordinary Girl and Capitol Hill

The new Sew Fab Bundle is here! This time it's a Winter Women's Bundle, with 10 new patterns, available till December 15th.


And, yes, that's me, top right corner, wearing the Extraordinary Girl by Filles à Maman. I also did my own version of the Capitol Hill by Straight Stitch Designs. For pattern descriptions and size charts, take look over here.


For the Extraordinary Girl, I did two versions during testing. This pattern is fun - I would never have thought of a lap-shoulder top for a woman, but it's a fun and unique detail and surprisingly easy to sew. This was my first try with the original pattern (since then the sides have been shaped a little more).



I used some fashion jersey, almost a coral colour with dusky roses printed all over it. I used the reverse of the same fabric for the contrast yoke and neck bands. I made my usual adjustment for long back by adding 1.5" inches to both front and back and 1" to the sleeve length.



With the final pattern I made my favourite version:



The fabric for this is much softer feeling - it's a Michael Miller knit from the Heaven and Helsinki line by Patty Young. The orange-red was a remnant I picked up ages ago.



This is a very bold colour for me! I usually stick to greens and blues and blacks for myself, but this was so happy I had to try it. I love the slight hi-lo hem.



The twin-needle hems worked out great - this time I just used regular thread in the bobbin instead of wooly nylon, as lately I can't get any good tension with that stuff.



I also tested for Kimberly of Straight Stitch Designs. After a lot of hard work and versions, she came out with this gorgeous design:



The Capitol Hill top and dress has lots of options and unique details! I did the elbow length banded sleeves and 3/4 circle skirt tunic length for mine. There are also options for a gathered skirt and full circle skirt, each in tunic or dress length, and long sleeves too. The bust shaping comes from overlapped double pleats at the centre, which Kimberly did a video walkthrough of as well as a thorough description in the pattern.


So check out the rest of the Sew Fab Bundle and enjoy!


Friday, November 14, 2014

Cathedral Windows

I can finally share this one! I'm a contributor over on So Sew Easy, first article today! Check out my tutorial for creating this beautiful Cathedral Window Cushion. I sure had fun doing this one.


Wednesday, October 8, 2014

Autumn is here! Time for long sleeves

We've been having a gorgeous Indian Summer/Fall here! Often Alberta has an abrupt 2 weeks of autumn between a hot summer and many months of snow, so I'm enjoying this.

Benjamin might not be - he's suddenly shot up, all in the upper body, it seems! Every time he lifts his arms his midriff is quite...chilly. Which means sewing, of course. He's very pleased with his new sweater, hopefully one that will do for Sundays this fall/winter.


I bought a soft Tommy Hilfiger men's XL v-neck sweater for $0.50 at a thrift sale this spring (of course forgot to take a before photo... sorry). The pattern I used is a basic long-sleeve shirt pattern from Ottobre Design magazine: #34 Mr. Bear from Winter 6/2013. I cut size 110 with a length of 122 for my long-torsoed son.

I started by cutting the front on the fold, guessing at where the v-neck should be, as the pattern is a crew neck. From there I cut the back, matching the stripes at the sides. So the only part I had to sew the neck ribbing on was the back neck.


Then I cut the sleeves, trying to line up the stripes to the sleeve openings. Not the best success there because I wanted to re-use the knitted-on cuffs.


I topstitched the ribbing at the back neck edge to keep it lying flat. Looks pretty similar to the front.


So it was pretty simple to put together - the last thing was the hem ribbing, which I sewed back on after I had the right length in the top. He's very pleased with his warm new sweater!



The other shirt I completed last week is a simple raglan style shirt, using the pattern Streamline Tee by Terra's Treasures, size 7. Goes together so fast!


The fabric is a poly-cotton blend french terry I got on clearance for $2.50/m a bit ago, plus a bit of brown cotton interlock for neckline binding. I left off the cuff and just hemmed the sleeves at about 3/4" and it's perfect for him.


So two shirts down and he's very thrilled! I like quick projects like this. :)